The best thing you can do if you plant to play archer classes is 
find a recipe for arrows and invest in the equipment and materials it 
takes to make them. You'll b egoing through allot of arrows. That's 
what makes archer the most expensive thing you can play in Amtgard. 
Some people may buy expensive armor and armor making materials, but 
if you play archer consistently you'll spend more money and time on 
arrows than anything else. Be prepared for that up front. You can go 
about it 2 ways. 
1. buy a whole lot of cheap crap and don't cry when it breaks and 
   you can't hit much

2. Spend a little more money up front and get materials and equipment 
   that are worthwhile. That way the only crying that happens is when 
   some freshly shot stick jock falls on one of your arrows and 
   breaks it.

    As far as the arrow heads, I use flat foam kickboards. Go to 
Lowe's and get yourself a power drill and a 2 1/2 inch hole saw used 
to cut the hole for a doorknob. Use the saw to cut out discs of the 
foam that come out a legal size. 1 kickboard properly cut will yield 
enough discs for about 8 or 9 arrowheads. Be sure to save the scraps 
when you cut out your discs. Make sure your arrows have a broadhead 
adapter on the end that is threaded. Screw down a washer to the 
broadhead adapter. The washer should be about 1 inch across. Each 
arrow will require 2 foam discs. The first disc completely covers the 
washer. The hole saw used to cut the discs has a pilot drill directly 
in the center. This drill bit will leave a small hole in the middle 
of each disc. From the hole, cut a straight line out to the edge of 
the disc. It should look like pac-man with his mouth closed. Now open 
the disc up from the cut and cut a channel in the middle of the 
inside of the disc so that it is just large enough to accomodate the 
washer. Put the screw you're using to attach the arrowhead to the 
arrow through the washer. Put a small piece of electrical tape around 
the threads of the screw. Now spray the entire waher and screw with 3-
M Super 77 spray adhesive.(Also available at Lowes) Right after 
spraying, push the washer inside the foam disc you cut open so that 
it is completeyl covered except for the screw sticking out of the 
bottom. Seal the cut in the foam disc with more spray adhesive. If it 
won't stay together while the glue is wet, use a piece of tape but 
don't pull it any tighter than you have to. Let the glue dry over 
night. The next day, remove the tape from the screw threads and the 
outside of the disc. Take a fresh disc and using your hand instead of 
a drill, use a drill bit to make a 3/8 inch hole all the way through 
the disc from one end to the other. Make another hole on the other 
side so that they form a kind of plus sign through the center of the 
disc. Glue this disc to the top of the other disc and after carefully 
centering it, clamp it together and let it dry overnight again. Once 
the glue is dry laminate the entire arrowhead with one layer of 
packing tape. Screw the arrowhead onto the shaft, make sure it's as 
tight as you can get it with your hand. You can squeeze the bottom 
disc against the washer and tighten it easily. Now you need the 
scraps you saved when cutting the discs out of the kickboards. Use 
strips of the scraps to wrap the arrow shaft at the base of the disc. 
Using electrical tape make a tight wrap of foam at the base of the 
disc and connect the bottom half of the bottom disc to the foam scrap 
wrapped around the shaft. The idea here is to make the arrowhead 
extremely stable. This is the only place you want to use electrical 
tape. This is also the most crucial stage that will determine the 
overall stability of the arrow. If the stabilizing wrap is done 
poorly or too fast, the arrowhead will be off center and will wobble 
as it flies. It will be slower and not accurate at all. After you 
have the arrow wrapped and it is stable and even you need a cover. 
Allot of people use square covers for their arrows. These cause allot 
of instability as the corners stick out and create turbulent air as 
the arrow spins. The best cover is one that is form fitting and 
completely streamlined. Another crucial part of the cover is ensuring 
that there is no extra scrap material sticking out at the base of the 
arrowhead. This will destabilize the arrow as it spins and again will 
create turbulent airflow over your flights. 
     My arrows are made of cedar with quad fletched flu-flu feathers. 
With the low poundage bows we use and the light tips, most aluminum 
hunting arrows are just too stiff fully transmit every last bit of 
stored energy and take full advantage of the available power. Light 
spined wooden arrows of the proper length and diameter for your bow 
and your draw length will allow you to shoot much farther and much 
straighter than the majority of AmtBowpersons. Allot of people 
attribute archery to the quality of bow you have, but any bow with a 
crappy arrow will never hit as many times as a stick and bootlace 
with an arrow designed to be fired from a stick and bootlace. Ask Sir 
Rigel if you don't believe me, archery is all about physics and 
aerodynamics. Your bow can only do so much. Your arrow is where the 
real variance is at.